Thursday, May 20, 2010

Phu Kradung

After killing a day in Loei, based on the mutual conclusion at 5am that we didn't want to get up, we rose early the following morning and caught a bus to Phu Kradung national park for a day of hiking. Phu Kradung is a sandstone plateau rising out of the tropical forests of northern Thailand, and the first national park we've visited in Thailand. Upon arriving at the park we were hit with a bit of sticker shock when we saw the roughly $14 dollar entrance fee. Definitely much more than we've had to pay thus far on the trip, but it quickly became apparent that the money is put to good use in the park. The visitors center and entrance to the park is immaculately kept. The park is dotted with secluded well shaded picinic areas, winding nature paths, and a well maintained trail to the top.

The trail up Phu Kradung rises sharply out of the rolling northern plains of Thailand, ascending the shoulder of the extensive plateau. We began on a 4m wide boulevard cutting throught the thick tropical forests and accompanying humidity. The boulevard gave way to a wide stone staircase climbing the slopes of the plateau. As we gained elevation the trail slowly began to narrow from the wide boulevard to a well worn rock strewn path.

Brief respites in the slope were accomapanied by rows of bamboo food stalls occupying the precious flat ground. We didn't hit the park during the peak tourist season, which meant the bamboo huts stood empty, waiting for cooler temperatures and larger crowds. Each short bench etched into the slopes of the plateau would soon give way once more to the steep rocky slopes sending us toward the summit.

By the time we reached the summit we had passed from dense tropical forests at the base, into a cool pine savannah blanketing the top of the plateau. Aided by the cooler temperatures and teh gentle breeze blowing across the savannah, our arrival at the top of Phu Kradung felt wonderful. Open grasslands with a scattering of stately pines, offering pockets of shade to the landscape.

We wandered around the edge of the plateau skirting the sandstone cliffs the define the mountain top, peering into the distance, absorbing the beauty of the undualating hills below. From the cliffs we headed across the savannah towards the mountain top visitor's center, passing by a beautiful pond/stream, the most relaxing spot of the day. Cool water winding its way amid the grassland and pine trees, rolling and tumbling over the moss covered sandstone beneath it. Serene. Sadly our time constraints(mainly the need to catch an afternoon bus back to Loei) kept us from taking in all the sights.

Phu Kradung took a solid eight hours of hiking to explore, and we still only managed to scrape the surface of its beauty. I regretted the eight hours of hiking the next day on the bike, but the park was absolutely worth it.

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